Route Setting

Route setting for rock climbing is an exercise in level design for the physical space. It involves considering the restrictions of your climbers while curating an experience based on difficulty and style. Well set routes flow beautifully together, combining the base joy of physicality with the rush of solving a difficult puzzle. The climber feels truly rewarded upon completing them, and may find themselves returning to the route to relive the simple joy of its motions.

The routes that I’ve set are organized below with the specific holds circled and numbered. I will also describe the flow of motion through the route, detailing my intent with each move and hold.

Here’s a helpful list of terms that will appear in my descriptions:

Jug – A hold that is concave along the angle the climber is grabbing, allowing for easy grip.

Crimp – A smaller hold that only lets the climber use their fingertips.

Sloper – A hold of varying size, but characterized by a convex shape that doesn’t allow natural grip.

Pocket – A hold with only a small opening or surface that allows a limited number of fingers.

Sidepull – A hold that the climber grabs from the side, often leaning their weight in the opposite direction to retain the best grip.

Gaston – A sidepull that faces towards the climb, requiring them to press against the hold using their shoulder muscles.

Dyno – A dynamic move. Any movement from one hold to the next that requires full-body dynamic motion, such as jumping from one hold to the next.

Flag/Backflag – Flagging is when the climber sticks a leg to the side without placing it on any specific hold. It’s done to shift body weight and improve balance. Backflagging is similar, but the flagging foot crosses behind the foot on the wall.

Beta – A way to do a climb. My explanations below will be of my intended beta, with notes made for when climbers find effective alternate betas.

Feature – I set on a rock wall that’s shaped like real rock. Natural parts of the wall are referred to as “features” and aren’t used in routes unless indicated.